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Bestard Test Team

Boris Lorencic
Boris Lorencic
Nacido en: Maribor, Eslovenia 1970
Reside en: Eslovenia
Guía de Montaña UIAGM, expediciones, escalada, alpinismo
Boris Lorencic started climbing when he was 16 years old and never looked back since. He has climbed over 1500 ascents in Slovenia and world, which has influenced his life thoroughly. When Boris is not climbing, he is happy to share his climbing experiences with fellow climbers and giving lectures or presenting slide shows to various audiences home and abroad. He is also an active mountain guide, organiser and lecturer on different mountaineering, alpine and rock climbing courses for adults and students. He tries to convey to them what he is constantly learning as a climber - that right choice of equipment and tools combined with right attitude and values is necessary to enjoy life and climbing fully. His latest ascents that he is very proud of are successful third ascent of Slovak Route (2400m, Gálfy-Orolín-Petrík, 1983) on the west face of Fitz Roy (Patagonia) and 2006 ascent of NW Pillar of Chomo Lhari (7326m, Himalaya). In 2007 he made first ascent over SW wall (second ascent on the top!) of Pathibara (7140 m, Nepal). Chomo Lhari is especially important to Boris - not because of Piolet d'or and Golden piton awards it received - but because it was done in pure alpine style and was an amazing personal experience shared with Marko Prezelj. Certifications:
  • IFMGA Licence
  • ZGVS (Slovenian Mountaineering Guide Association)
  • Member of Slovenska gorni?ka ?ola (Slovenian mountaineering school - www.gorniskasola.net)
  • Ascents and mountaineering expeditions Rock climbing and long sport routes:
  • Kotecnik, Dream team, 7c+/8a
  • Paklenica, Anica Kuk, Rajna, 7a
  • Paklenica, Anica Kuk, Nema Dinka do
  • Dinka, 7b, OS
  • Paklenica, Anica Kuk, El Condor Pasa, 7a,
  • OS
  • Zadnji?ki ozebnik, Gorska ro?a, 7a, OS
  • Several different climbs "onsight" 7b
  • Aid climbing:
  • Paklenica, Anica Kuk, Tango vertikal, 6 A3
  • Yosemite, Leaning Tower, West Face, 6
  • A3
  • Yosemite, El Capitan, Aurora, 6 A4
  • In Slovenia walls and mountains, Boris has climbed a great deal of classic routes with special interest in less climbed routes and 1st ascents:
  • Vr?ac, Smer mladosti, VII
  • Sfinga, Kunaver - Dra?ler, VII+
  • Ojstrica, Du?akova smer, VII-, (1st ascent)
  • Ojstrica, Otroci asfalta, VII A2, (1st ascent)
  • Ojstrica, Herletova smer, VI, solo
  • ?pik, Direktna smer, V+, solo
  • ?pik, Cizljeva smer, VII
  • Travnik, A?enbrenerjeva smer, VI A0, (1st winter ascent in one day)
  • Travnik, Crni biser, VII
  • Planja, N wall, Skender beg, VI+, 2nd ascent
  • Planja, S wall, Ogledalo, VII+/VIII-
  • Stenar, Led s severa, 45-90 stop./ V+
  • He has particulary fond memories on walls of Central Alps and Dolomites:
  • Cina west: Cassin-Ratti, VIII -
  • Marmolada: Tempi moderni, VII +
  • Grandes Jorasses: Walker Spur, VI AO
  • Dru: American Direct, VII
  • Expeditions:
  • USA, Yosemite (1996)
  • Aconcagua (1999)
  • Annapurna III (2000)
  • Patagonia (2004)
  • Patagonia (2006) - El Mocho, Ag. Saint Exupery, west face of Fitz Roy - Slovak Route (2400m) 3rd ascent
  • Chomo Lhari 7326m (2006) (awarded Piolet d'Or, Golden Piton)
  • Pathibara - Pyramid Peak 7140m (2007)
  • Boris Lorencic
    Bruce Normand
    Carles Gel
    Cecilia Buil Polo
    Cristina Mercadal & Ferran Miranda
    Dicu Emanuel Cristi
    Federico Garrido
    Janne Corax
    Juan Goyanes
    Julio Angel Montes Campos
    Nadine Saulnier
    Nando Gel
    Pep Barceló Estelrich
    Sergi Fernández Tolosa
    Tolo Calafat
    Xim Perez Sánchez